5.3 Jeeps

[Jeep Farm]

Any of you that are using Auto Meter gauges, where did you tap into the block for the oil pressure and water temp?

Also are you guys using short sweep or full sweep gauges and what the hell does it mean?

Thanks,

Jay

[Bo185]

Originally Posted by Jeep Farm

Any of you that are using Auto Meter gauges, where did you tap into the block for the oil pressure and water temp?

Also are you guys using short sweep or full sweep gauges and what the hell does it mean?

Thanks,

Jay

Depends on the motor.

You can remove the stock GM oil pressure sender at hte back top of the block and use an adapter to mount the auto meter one. The nfor the water temp just use the opposite plug that the stock temp sensor uses on the pass. head back side.


Auto meter sells the adapter for metric to there senders look on summit

[chris demartini]

I have autometer gauges and put the water temp sender in a NPT plug where my heater ports used to be (buggy no heat). You can also get a fitting that replaces the allen head screw in the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust manifold that adapts to 1/8 NPT.

Trans temp senders go in the test ports in the trans. They are already 1/8 NPT like the gauge sender is so it just fits right in.

For the oil pressure sender I drilled and tapped a 1/8 NPT hole in the oil cooler line cap that came with my F body pan. It works fine.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by Jeep Farm

Also are you guys using short sweep or full sweep gauges and what the hell does it mean?

Thanks,

Jay

Full sweep - means the gauge goes clear around almost 360*
Short sweep - means it goes about 90*, like a windshield wiper. Kind of from one side to the other, and not completely around

Originally Posted by chris demartini

I have autometer gauges and put the water temp sender in a NPT plug where my heater ports used to be (buggy no heat). You can also get a fitting that replaces the allen head screw in the back of the cylinder head near the exhaust manifold that adapts to 1/8 NPT.

EDIT: there is also a temp sender from a Camaro I believe? that will go into the stock location and run both the PCM and gauge. Do a search, because I don't recall the exact application.

Trans temp senders go in the test ports in the trans. They are already 1/8 NPT like the gauge sender is so it just fits right in.

For the oil pressure sender I drilled and tapped a 1/8 NPT hole in the oil cooler line cap that came with my F body pan. It works fine.

That's what I did - Except I actually put some grease in the water hole and tapped it out to 1/8" pipe and screwed the water temp sender right in there.

Tapped the block off plate by the filter for the oil pressure. Then I protected the wiring with loom and then some heater hose to keep the exhaust from melting it all up.

Used the pressure port on the tranny for the trans temp gauge. This point will test the temp of the oil being pumped into the tranny. Not what's in the pan, and not what it is after going through the tranny or tranny cooler. If you put it in the pan, it's going to read an 'average' temp and not change much or slowly if it does. In the test port it changes quickly as conditions change. In the pan you might not even see it get hot on hill climbs and then after the climb is over, it might change. But in the port you'll see it change the entire climb and then after the climb is over. IMO much better!! This way if it hits 240*, you can pull over and let it cool a bit. The other way if it hits 240* it's probably already too late.

[matts88yj]

Originally Posted by waynehartwig

That's what I did - Except I actually put some grease in the water hole and tapped it out to 1/8" pipe and screwed the water temp sender right in there.

Tapped the block off plate by the filter for the oil pressure. Then I protected the wiring with loom and then some heater hose to keep the exhaust from melting it all up.

Used the pressure port on the tranny for the trans temp gauge. This point will test the temp of the oil being pumped into the tranny. Not what's in the pan, and not what it is after going through the tranny or tranny cooler. If you put it in the pan, it's going to read an 'average' temp and not change much or slowly if it does. In the test port it changes quickly as conditions change. In the pan you might not even see it get hot on hill climbs and then after the climb is over, it might change. But in the port you'll see it change the entire climb and then after the climb is over. IMO much better!! This way if it hits 240*, you can pull over and let it cool a bit. The other way if it hits 240* it's probably already too late.

Excellent tech! I now know where my trans temp sender and the warning light sender will be going! What the hottest you have gotten your trans Wayne? Also what's the hottest it should run? I'm thinking it shouldn't get over 190 but I could be wrong.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by matts88yj

Excellent tech! I now know where my trans temp sender and the warning light sender will be going! What the hottest you have gotten your trans Wayne? Also what's the hottest it should run? I'm thinking it shouldn't get over 190 but I could be wrong.

240-245* while towing a camp trailer up a pass. Had it gone higher, I would have pulled over, but I was at the top so I continued. If I was still towing that trailer, I'd be looking into adapting another cooler somewhere. But now it doesn't tow out of town.

I'd say 200* max normally and 240* max on occasion. If you ever see 300*, you should probably look into rebuild kits.

4L60E's should be running full synthetic. I am.

[matts88yj]

I'm going to be running the TCI pan that adds 2.5 quarts of more fluid and running a stand alone cooler with it's own fan so I don't think cooling will be too much of an issue. I'm going to be running Amsoil in it as well. I figured getting the warning light for the trans at a 230 temp is good then if 240 should be the max on occasion? The most I would be towing is a good sized pop up camper to and from wheeling.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by matts88yj

I'm going to be running the TCI pan that adds 2.5 quarts of more fluid and running a stand alone cooler with it's own fan so I don't think cooling will be too much of an issue. I'm going to be running Amsoil in it as well. I figured getting the warning light for the trans at a 230 temp is good then if 240 should be the max on occasion? The most I would be towing is a good sized pop up camper to and from wheeling.

If I'm not mistaken, the TCI pan is the same depth/capacity as the truck pan - somebody confirm this? I know the truck pan is deeper than the car pan.

No idea on Amsoil. I've never had much good luck with it the one time I used it. I'm just using plain ol Dexron VI from Castrol.

Honestly, I don't think the trans should ever see more than 200*. However, it needs to see over 160*, so put a thermostat on the fan rather than running it all the time. I'm not a tranny guy, but I know there are things in the tune are based on trans temp. I'd run it through the fan/external and then the radiator before going back to the trans. That way the radiator can still warm up the fluid. Dunno...Some people say the opposite - radiator then external. 6's I guess....Both have good points. I think the most important is to have a cooler that will keep it cool regardless.

[matts88yj]

Originally Posted by waynehartwig

If I'm not mistaken, the TCI pan is the same depth/capacity as the truck pan - somebody confirm this? I know the truck pan is deeper than the car pan.

No idea on Amsoil. I've never had much good luck with it the one time I used it. I'm just using plain ol Dexron VI from Castrol.

Honestly, I don't think the trans should ever see more than 200*. However, it needs to see over 160*, so put a thermostat on the fan rather than running it all the time. I'm not a tranny guy, but I know there are things in the tune are based on trans temp. I'd run it through the fan/external and then the radiator before going back to the trans. That way the radiator can still warm up the fluid. Dunno...Some people say the opposite - radiator then external. 6's I guess....Both have good points. I think the most important is to have a cooler that will keep it cool regardless.

When I was on TCI's site I believe they had a stock depth pan and a deeper pan for an additional 2 quarts. TCI part number 378000.

The fan will have an in-line thermostat to kick the fan on automatically but I will be wiring it to a 3 way switch so it can be on auto, off, on just as a backup in case something would go wrong with the in-line unit. Figure I better be safe than sorry and do it right while it's all apart. I was just going to plumb it to run from the trans, through the cooler and then back into the trans but I may look at running it through the radiator as well. Thanks again Wayne!

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by matts88yj

When I was on TCI's site I believe they had a stock depth pan and a deeper pan for an additional 2 quarts. TCI part number 378000.

The fan will have an in-line thermostat to kick the fan on automatically but I will be wiring it to a 3 way switch so it can be on auto, off, on just as a backup in case something would go wrong with the in-line unit. Figure I better be safe than sorry and do it right while it's all apart. I was just going to plumb it to run from the trans, through the cooler and then back into the trans but I may look at running it through the radiator as well. Thanks again Wayne!

Actually it's not the OEM truck pan - that one is finned aluminum.

Here's the deal-e-o... There are two pans and two filter setups - car and truck. The truck setup can be found in any wrecking yard for next to nothing Hell, you might already have a truck pan! Granted, it's not fancy AL or finned, but it's a lot less than $150

EDIT: If you want to spend your money on something, pick up a ATSC (I think it's called) manual, a bullet proof sun shell and a Corvette servo at minimum.

But if you use a Fram filter kit, make sure it fits correctly before putting the pan on! The kits I've tried all of them touched the pan where they shouldn't. The ony kits I tried that didn't have this issue was OEM. Either way, if I remember right, it's just a screen anyway and not actual filter media.

Which brings me to another thing... You might consider also installing an external media filter.

[matts88yj]

Well my engine and trans did come out of an 05 Tahoe so I would think I have the truck setup. The problem is that this pan isn't in the best shape and has some cracks in it and I would like to replace it. I will have to check and see if I can snag a pan up at the yard!

I already had plans on buying the sun shell and the HD servos while the trans is apart I will look into the ATSC manual. This is the first time I have dealt with anything auto trans related so it's all Greek to me still!

Hmm external media filter eh? What micron rating should I install? I'm assuming the best place to plumb this in would be in the return line going back from the cooler into the trans?

[simadownow6988]

What are you guys running for a intake system? Pictures and/or part numbers will be very helpful.
Thanks

[Hunt]

Originally Posted by simadownow6988

What are you guys running for a intake system? Pictures and/or part numbers will be very helpful.
Thanks

My intake system.

[MR. HOGG]

This may have already been covered. What is the best oil pan for clearance. My LS builder recomended one from an H2.

I currently have the truck pan and have whacked it on a couple rocks .

[Bo185]

Originally Posted by MR. HOGG

This may have already been covered. What is the best oil pan for clearance. My LS builder recomended one from an H2.

I currently have the truck pan and have whacked it on a couple rocks .

The H2 is a truck pan as well.

The F-body is shorter than the truck pan. The shortest is teh LS1 Vette "Bat-wing" oil pan but its really wide.

oil pans
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html

[MR. HOGG]

Originally Posted by Bo185

The H2 is a truck pan as well.

The F-body is shorter than the truck pan. The shortest is teh LS1 Vette "Bat-wing" oil pan but its really wide.

oil pans
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html

That makes sense about the H2 pan. He was adamant that it was different, oh well.

Thanks for the info, It's already too tight so going wider is a bad idea. I printed that link and i'm going to do some measuring.

[Bo185]

Originally Posted by MR. HOGG

That makes sense about the H2 pan. He was adamant that it was different, oh well.

Thanks for the info, It's already too tight so going wider is a bad idea. I printed that link and i'm going to do some measuring.

The F-body or LS2 oil pan is your best bet.

Now the H3 pan is different, but its almost the same depth as the reg. truck.

[waynehartwig]

Originally Posted by matts88yj

Well my engine and trans did come out of an 05 Tahoe so I would think I have the truck setup. The problem is that this pan isn't in the best shape and has some cracks in it and I would like to replace it. I will have to check and see if I can snag a pan up at the yard!

I already had plans on buying the sun shell and the HD servos while the trans is apart I will look into the ATSC manual. This is the first time I have dealt with anything auto trans related so it's all Greek to me still!

Hmm external media filter eh? What micron rating should I install? I'm assuming the best place to plumb this in would be in the return line going back from the cooler into the trans?

It could be either the shallow or deep pan. Not sure what designates either?

The ATSC is a really good service manual for the 700r4/4l60e. It will show you how to replace the sun shell.

Originally Posted by simadownow6988

What are you guys running for a intake system? Pictures and/or part numbers will be very helpful.
Thanks

I just used a K&N filter, some 4" AL tube and some rubber connecters/elbows. Oh and some T clamps

Originally Posted by Hunt

My intake system.

Yeah yeah yeah.... You just want to show off the new supercharger I WANT ONE!

Originally Posted by Bo185

The H2 is a truck pan as well.

The F-body is shorter than the truck pan. The shortest is teh LS1 Vette "Bat-wing" oil pan but its really wide.

oil pans
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...-oil-pans.html

Yup! I'm using the F body pan as well. Hint though, shop around. GM Parts Direct might be cheaper on the part, but their shipping costs are outrageous!!!! I want to say it was $40 from Portland to Spokane with a 13 lb box that was the oil pan.

[FrkyMnky1487]

Originally Posted by BamaScout

Any pics of your frame?

I was following that thread a while back and just forgot about it. What they are doing to a YJ is amazing, but I'm just not that committed to a YJ. I would have pulled the buggy trigger a long time ago.

Sorry for taking so long.. Here are a few pictures. Ill post more on my build when I get more worth posting.