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Old 11-02-2009, 08:24 PM   #776
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Has anyone here ran an emissions compliant settup? Can you leave all of the emissions stuff wired into the harness and installed on the engine then "turn it off" in the ECM? What did you do for your front O2's on the header or further down on the exhaust pipe? Lastly what did you do for cats? (2 small ones near the stock location or just one larger one in the Jeep location?) The reason I ask is that my Jeep with it's P.o.S. 4.2 currently doesn't pass emissions and I am having to register it elsewhere for now. The county I am currently registering it in used to have emissions testing and it could come back at any time so I'd like to get this thing compliant if it's not too much of a pain in the wallet.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:40 PM   #777
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I just passed my emissions today.
I am running 07, 5.3 with 30k and a single cat, I am using all 4 o2 sensors and I passed Utahs emissions with with flying colors. I have the o2 plumbed into the header collectors and 2 right behind the cat. If you can when you get the engine try and get all 02 sensors. They cost about 140.00 per sensor. I had Wayne reflash my PCM and left all the emissions stuff on. So far so good.
Salt Lake County does run the dyno emissions as well.
The only thing I am waiting to see, is what happens with the canister. I had a yj and I put a tj canister in and piped the line into the chevy purge valve.
If any else has a better way to handle the purge valve, I would love to hear it.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:39 AM   #778
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Is there a smog pump on that setup. I have seen them with an electric motor for sale on ebay and was wondering if I have to have it for my 2001 setup? Where is it located in the donor truck, the firewall maybe?
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:46 AM   #779
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coloradocrawler View Post
Has anyone here ran an emissions compliant settup? Can you leave all of the emissions stuff wired into the harness and installed on the engine then "turn it off" in the ECM? What did you do for your front O2's on the header or further down on the exhaust pipe? Lastly what did you do for cats? (2 small ones near the stock location or just one larger one in the Jeep location?) The reason I ask is that my Jeep with it's P.o.S. 4.2 currently doesn't pass emissions and I am having to register it elsewhere for now. The county I am currently registering it in used to have emissions testing and it could come back at any time so I'd like to get this thing compliant if it's not too much of a pain in the wallet.
Mine is an 04 Rubicon with a an 08 Sierra 5.3 and I passed WA smog test in August. I only have the upper o2's in the headers and after the Y, I have a single cat. Of course all of the other emission controls for the 08 are in place and fully functional.

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Originally Posted by oldschoolyj88 View Post
I just passed my emissions today.
I am running 07, 5.3 with 30k and a single cat, I am using all 4 o2 sensors and I passed Utahs emissions with with flying colors. I have the o2 plumbed into the header collectors and 2 right behind the cat. If you can when you get the engine try and get all 02 sensors. They cost about 140.00 per sensor. I had Wayne reflash my PCM and left all the emissions stuff on. So far so good.
Salt Lake County does run the dyno emissions as well.
The only thing I am waiting to see, is what happens with the canister. I had a yj and I put a tj canister in and piped the line into the chevy purge valve.
If any else has a better way to handle the purge valve, I would love to hear it.
That's awesome!!!! Did you try smogging before I did the tune?

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Originally Posted by coloradocrawler View Post
Is there a smog pump on that setup. I have seen them with an electric motor for sale on ebay and was wondering if I have to have it for my 2001 setup? Where is it located in the donor truck, the firewall maybe?
No smog pump. GM hasn't used them in a long time. GM also don't use the HV pump for fuel tank leak detection, or what ever the hell they call it. GM uses a pressure sensor mounted in the tank, a purge valve on the motor and a vent valve after the canister. The PCM knows how much pressure/vacuum should be in the tank at all times and as it opens the two valves. So the key in GM's setup is the pressure sensor mounted in the tank. I mounted mine in the vent hoses before the canister, used the stock TJ canister and bought a GM vent solenoid. Hooked it all up like GM did and viola, fully functional.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:20 AM   #780
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Right on man, it doesn't sound like it'll be too much trouble. I need to find an emmisions schematic for the donor truck to make sure I don't miss anything. I guess if I do they'll tell me at the emissions station.
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:42 AM   #781
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Originally Posted by coloradocrawler View Post
Right on man, it doesn't sound like it'll be too much trouble. I need to find an emmisions schematic for the donor truck to make sure I don't miss anything. I guess if I do they'll tell me at the emissions station.
It's really very easy. Take each item and work it out, from start to finish. There is no part of the swap that is rocket science. Even the wiring is easy, though I paid Speartech to do mine
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:13 PM   #782
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Yeah, my wife has told me that I'll be buying a custom harness because she doesn't want me cussing in the garage for days on end rewiring a stock harness. I have no doubt that I can do it and I work with professional aircraft electricians for assistance, but I think she is right....fawk it, outsource it.
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:39 PM   #783
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Yeah, my wife has told me that I'll be buying a custom harness because she doesn't want me cussing in the garage for days on end rewiring a stock harness. I have no doubt that I can do it and I work with professional aircraft electricians for assistance, but I think she is right....fawk it, outsource it.
You basically run two quasi-independent electrical systems in an LSx swap. The Powertrain system (ECM, TAC, etc.) and the body/chassis system (Interior, lights, etc.) The "interface" is in the ignition switch and gauges.

"Outsource" the Powertrain system (i.e. Use the LSx donor harness/ECM or buy a turnkey) and roll your own body/chassis out of donor parts and custom wiring.

Camo had a thread awhile ago on wiring a buggy, and all of the "lessons learned" in that thread would apply to a LSx Jeep.

Good luck.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:22 PM   #784
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I went for a test run up Parleys Canyon. The engine ran perfect except a couple of full pedal shifts it would not shift to 3rd. The engine ran up to the rev limiter and still did not shift. It was only on full pedal upshifting. The tranny did heat up to 210 degrees. What is the max temp that I should let that tranny go to? How would I know if the lockup is actually working as well. I did the brake pedal tie in,it has power to the pcm until I hit the brake pedal and then it cuts the power.

I still can not get my scanner to connect to the pcm. It show that its connected but when it goes to read I get the trouble code. Which is weird cause it worked fine after I plug in the new flashed pcm, went for 1 ride and nothing since.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:59 PM   #785
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Originally Posted by oldschoolyj88 View Post
I went for a test run up Parleys Canyon. The engine ran perfect except a couple of full pedal shifts it would not shift to 3rd. The engine ran up to the rev limiter and still did not shift. It was only on full pedal upshifting. The tranny did heat up to 210 degrees. What is the max temp that I should let that tranny go to? How would I know if the lockup is actually working as well. I did the brake pedal tie in,it has power to the pcm until I hit the brake pedal and then it cuts the power.

I still can not get my scanner to connect to the pcm. It show that its connected but when it goes to read I get the trouble code. Which is weird cause it worked fine after I plug in the new flashed pcm, went for 1 ride and nothing since.
I have a meeting that just showed up, so let me deal with him and I'll look at your tune and see if it's something in the tune - because it sounds like it. I think I left the fuel cutoff at 6k RPM's but have your WOT shift points higher? I'll check!

EDIT: I think this is what's going on. I think the speed required to shift to the next gear is below the rev limiter. REV limiter is set at 6,000 RPM's and the next gear change is at 5400 or 5600 RPM, depending on gear. But I believe the speed is the issue. In order to shift to the next gear, the PCM needs to see 42, 82 or 132 MPH respectively. So even though you are over the shift RPM, if these speeds aren't met as well, it won't change gears - unless you take your foot out of it.

So does this sound like what's happening, Jeff?
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:08 PM   #786
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Some ofthe LS1's in the F-bodys had a AIR pump and some earlier 4.8/5.3l used in CA only. Also the early 5.3L had EGR's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coloradocrawler
Has anyone here ran an emissions compliant settup? Can you leave all of the emissions stuff wired into the harness and installed on the engine then "turn it off" in the ECM? What did you do for your front O2's on the header or further down on the exhaust pipe?
The Lsx motors have 4 O2 sensors. 2 used infront ofthe cats for the PCM. The rear O2's are after the cats and just used to tell that the cats are bad ie need replaced. So you don't need them. just remove the wires and tune them out of the PCM. The man thin is having Cats and an working EVAP system. The later 03 up truck motors don't have an EGR anyway. You could hook the Jeep EVAP into the LSx canisiter purge valve. But I am not sure howit know to purge I think its based off gas tank pressure or the canisters. Never really looked into it.

Lastly what did you do for cats? (2 small ones near the stock location or just one larger one in the Jeep location?) The reason I ask is that my Jeep with it's P.o.S. 4.2 currently doesn't pass emissions and I am having to register it elsewhere for now. The county I am currently registering it in used to have emissions testing and it could come back at any time so I'd like to get this thing compliant if it's not too much of a pain in the wallet[/quote]
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:22 PM   #787
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Wayne,

That is what it is was doing.

Anyone have problems with Altas transfercases leaking. I have fluid leaking out the skid plate, but I can not see where its leaking without pulling the skid plate off. It does not appear to be leaking on the backside where I can see up the skid plate.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:51 PM   #788
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Originally Posted by Bo185 View Post
Some ofthe LS1's in the F-bodys had a AIR pump and some earlier 4.8/5.3l used in CA only. Also the early 5.3L had EGR's.

The Lsx motors have 4 O2 sensors. 2 used infront ofthe cats for the PCM. The rear O2's are after the cats and just used to tell that the cats are bad ie need replaced. So you don't need them. just remove the wires and tune them out of the PCM. The man thin is having Cats and an working EVAP system. The later 03 up truck motors don't have an EGR anyway. You could hook the Jeep EVAP into the LSx canisiter purge valve. But I am not sure howit know to purge I think its based off gas tank pressure or the canisters. Never really looked into it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it also uses the downstream o2's for long term fueling calculations. I deleted mine, and I have no issues with STFT or LTFT's... (short term/long term fueling trim)

I'd have to look it up, but it was very easy to hook up the canister....
The vent solenoid goes to the output of the canister.
And I think the purge solenoid just goes to the roll over valves in line with the canister? I can't find that info now and it's too dark to go out and look at my rig.

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Wayne,

That is what it is was doing.

Anyone have problems with Altas transfercases leaking. I have fluid leaking out the skid plate, but I can not see where its leaking without pulling the skid plate off. It does not appear to be leaking on the backside where I can see up the skid plate.
Run it a bit more, since that's not a big issue and see if there is anything else that might need to be tweeked. If not, drop it in the mail and I'll fix it. I'll also be down that way for EJS and can fix it as I go through town? I still want to see it ran longer to be sure there aren't any pending codes that might surface.

Check the attachment point at the trans. It's possible the fluid you are seeing is actually trans fluid and not tcase. On mine, the studs/nuts holding the trans/tcase together worked themselves loose and caused a leak. If you haven't done it, red loctite is your friend here.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:09 PM   #789
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Hello all,
I too have joined the 5.3L club. It's not in yet but it's sitting in my garage.
LY5 5.3L engine out of a 2008 gmc sierra 1500 with a 4l60e tranny(12,000 miles). I have a few questions to ask. I know most of you have put your 5.3L in a jeep tj. I am putting mine in a 1985 jeep cj8.

1.) I plan on bolting my 4l60e tranny to my stock jeep dana 300.And I'm not to sure which adapter is the better one to get. Advanced Adapters sells a 4l60e to dana 300 adapter. This adapter replaces the input shaft in the dana 300 to match the output shaft of the 4l60e tranny(27 spline). And I would have to cut(shorten) the output shaft of the 4l60e to match the two together. The other adapter I found was Novaks. Thier kit replaces the output shaft of the 4l60e to match the dana 300 input shaft(23 spline).

2.)With my purchase I did get the complete engine harness and computers and gas pedal.I noticed this post in the thread on page 31:

DO you have the original harness and computer ?
If so, send it all to Speartech and he will make it stand alone.


How much does this cost?

3.) and for the guys that have put this engine/tranny combo in a jeep cj what header/motor mount combo did you use and why?

4.) I've noticed that a few of you ealier in this thread were talking about changing out your oil pan. Which oil pan did you have and how deep was the sump on your original oil pan? And which oil pan did you change over too?

thanks,
85'scrambler

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:29 PM   #790
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it also uses the downstream o2's for long term fueling calculations. I deleted mine, and I have no issues with STFT or LTFT's... (short term/long term fueling trim)
The aft O2's are just to tell the PCM your Cats a bad. So you don't need the rear O2s unless for emission. If you leave them out it will run just fine, the tune them out.

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I'd have to look it up, but it was very easy to hook up the canister....
The vent solenoid goes to the output of the canister.
And I think the purge solenoid just goes to the roll over valves in line with the canister? I can't find that info now and it's too dark to go out and look at my rig.
You know I talked to someone else on here about the EVAP system and they said that EVAP emission from the tank is the biggest pollutant. I have thought about hooking them up and running cats as well. Neither of those will hurt performance as they have high flow cats now.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:36 PM   #791
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Originally Posted by 85'scrambler View Post
Hello all,
I too have joined the 5.3L club. It's not in yet but it's sitting in my garage.
LY5 5.3L engine out of a 2008 gmc sierra 1500 with a 4l60e tranny(12,000 miles). I have a few questions to ask. I know most of you have put your 5.3L in a jeep tj. I am putting mine in a 1985 jeep cj8.

1.) I plan on bolting my 4l60e tranny to my stock jeep dana 300.And I'm not to sure which adapter is the better one to get. Advanced Adapters sells a 4l60e to dana 300 adapter. This adapter replaces the input shaft in the dana 300 to match the output shaft of the 4l60e tranny(27 spline). And I would have to cut(shorten) the output shaft of the 4l60e to match the two together. The other adapter I found was Novaks. Thier kit replaces the output shaft of the 4l60e to match the dana 300 input shaft(23 spline). To run the 4l70 (which yours is being an 08) youwill need a VSS sensor for it to shift

2.)With my purchase I did get the complete engine harness and computers and gas pedal.I noticed this post in the thread on page 31:

DO you have the original harness and computer ?
If so, send it all to Speartech and he will make it stand alone.


How much does this cost?Can't remember but might be 500 bucks for the Gen IV. And did you get the TCM for the trans. As the 08's a separate from the ECM's now.

3.) and for the guys that have put this engine/tranny combo in a jeep cj what header/motor mount combo did you use and why?

4.) I've noticed that a few of you earlier in this thread were talking about changing out your oil pan. Which oil pan did you have and how deep was the sump on your original oil pan? And which oil pan did you change over too?

thanks,
85'scrambler
Might Call Jim's performance as he does rewire of stock harness, also waynehartwig does tuning as well.

Its not that hard to do yourself with wiring diagrams. Basically you just remove or cap the stuff you don't need. I posted a list in this thread of stuff to remove or check the link in my sig.
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Old 11-04-2009, 11:42 PM   #792
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I used the Novak adapter on my 4l60e to 241OR. Always been happy with their quality. Here's some shots form the initial install.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:06 AM   #793
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The aft O2's are just to tell the PCM your Cats a bad. So you don't need the rear O2s unless for emission. If you leave them out it will run just fine, the tune them out.

You know I talked to someone else on here about the EVAP system and they said that EVAP emission from the tank is the biggest pollutant. I have thought about hooking them up and running cats as well. Neither of those will hurt performance as they have high flow cats now.
I know it works fine without the rear o2's enabled, same with the short and long term fuel trims. But I remember reading somewhere that the PCM uses the rear o2's not only for catalyst effeciency, but also for long term fuel trims. I just did a quick scan in my document and I'm not seeing any talk about the rear o2's at all, so I'm not 100% sure on that...

To my knowledge, the EVAP system is a federal requirement and for any vehicle on the road not having it is illegal. I could be wrong because I'm not a smog guy, but that's my undersatnding. Setting up the EVAP system is really easy. GM's setup is much easier than Chrysler's, and less components as well!

Speartech charges $500 for the harness and I believe $300 for the tune. John did my harness, but I did my own tune. I wouldn't hestitate to use John again if I was to do another swap... But like was said, harness is easy to do yourself. Just take each system individually. If you don't need it, pull the wires.
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:09 PM   #794
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I know it works fine without the rear o2's enabled, same with the short and long term fuel trims. But I remember reading somewhere that the PCM uses the rear o2's not only for catalyst effeciency, but also for long term fuel trims. I just did a quick scan in my document and I'm not seeing any talk about the rear o2's at all, so I'm not 100% sure on that...
Yeah, I have never heard that.

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To my knowledge, the EVAP system is a federal requirement and for any vehicle on the road not having it is illegal. I could be wrong because I'm not a smog guy, but that's my undersatnding. Setting up the EVAP system is really easy. GM's setup is much easier than Chrysler's, and less components as well!
I "think", not having researched it, that if its in an earlier vehicle that didn't have EVAP then it doesn't need it. But my scout had EVAP stock so technically it needs it. I beleive is a good idea, now, and will lock at keeping it on my next swap. As well as cats.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:10 PM   #795
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Yeah, I have never heard that.

I "think", not having researched it, that if its in an earlier vehicle that didn't have EVAP then it doesn't need it. But my scout had EVAP stock so technically it needs it. I beleive is a good idea, now, and will lock at keeping it on my next swap. As well as cats.
The way I understand the all 50 state smog - what ever year parts you are using, that's the year the smog has to be valid for. IE I put an 08 motor in my rig, which means now I have to comply with 08 smog requirements - not 04. Same thing if it was a 1950's truck with an 08 stuff...
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:51 AM   #796
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The way I understand the all 50 state smog - what ever year parts you are using, that's the year the smog has to be valid for. IE I put an 08 motor in my rig, which means now I have to comply with 08 smog requirements - not 04. Same thing if it was a 1950's truck with an 08 stuff...
I am not sure to tell you the truth. I know in AR they don't test or hell even look at anything.

That sounds right to be federally compliant. Only thing in my state was it has to have the same emission equipment as the vehicle originally had, I did check on that.


But this is a good point and I think it wise to be compliant now as that will be one less BS mark against us off-roaders. AR closed access to a area that you could ride, because of "the destruction and pollution bythe vehicles". The people that ride horses on it as well complained about to the state, causing the closer to vehicles.

Emission now are a good thing.
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:55 AM   #797
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Hey guys,

I have searched, but does any one have part #'s list for the correct Auto Meter guages to run with the Gen III's?
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:58 AM   #798
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Hey guys,

I have searched, but does any one have part #'s list for the correct Auto Meter guages to run with the Gen III's?
Any of them will work... So pick the one you like and run with it. Except for the mecahnical speedo..Unless you have the VSS and mechanical speedo port.
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:07 AM   #799
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Location: ottawa, il
Posts: 264
I found egauges to the be the cheapest compared to ebay, amazon, autozone, etc....unless you have a coupon for one of the other places.

These are for the Z-series:
2640 for trans temp - $45.80
2634 for oil pressure - $59.90
2645 for voltmeter - $35.90
2635 for coolant temp - $45.90
2641 for fuel level - $35.90 (note: your sender may require a different gauge)

I plan to use the factory tach and mechanical speedometer.

I haven't bought them yet, but I plan to. If someone else knows where I can get them cheaper, I would love to hear it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 06:16 PM   #800
Jeep Farm
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24235
Location: Canada Ont.
Posts: 64
Ok, but what about full and short sweep electric! Do they both work? Full is just a little more fancy, lol! I looked up the Z series

Also I have used the stock sending unit from the 93 YJ and replaced the fuel pump with a E2000. Which Ohm's would I need to go with?

Thanks for any and all help fella's!
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Last edited by Jeep Farm; 11-13-2009 at 06:49 PM.
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